The mozzarella in the myrtle: history and legend of the kitchen Velia

The muzzarella “co’ a mortedda”

E’ a pasta filata cheese obtained from the processing of cow's milk, whose traditional production area is detectable in a few towns of lower Cilento in Salernitano and in particular of Velia.

They are the shepherds and small producers, the custodians of a great tradition at risk of extinction: mozzarella in the myrtle. Because in the real mozzarella Cilento not preserved with salt, but with the myrtle leaves.

History and legend

The mozzarella in mortedda comes from the need to transport the cheese from the mountains where they went to pasture in summer, mainly in the Monte di Velia, the Gelbison. The custom was to make mozzarella shaped Cow tongue, that is, long and flat, with the same dough for caciocavallo, and wrap them in mortella, ie in myrtle leaves, with the dual function of transporting and storing. Back when there were no refrigerators, cheesemakers shepherds were proficient in 'to use a raw material available in abundance throughout the year as natural cover, able to maintain the ideal microclimate. And they were also lucky because the myrtle gives the mozzarella unique aromas and perfumes.

The name comes from the custom of packing mozzarella, elongated and more or less flat shape, the so-called “shredded mozzarella“, alternating with myrtle freshly harvested fronds then tied off at the ends with the thin and flexible branches of the broom. Generally these said packages “decks” contain 6-10 mozzarella.

Formerly the mozzarella was produced close to the areas where the animals were made to graze and is therefore presented the need to store it in casings that could protect it during transport to the countries where it was sold. You have chosen to use the myrtle, or myrtle, because in addition to being an evergreen plant, It is readily available as the essence spontaneous in the grazing areas of Cilento, and because it gives the product a very distinctive aroma.

A particularity in the processing consists in making mature curd, after breaking, in the absence, almost, serum which gives the product a consistenza compact and dry particularly with a double outer film. This cheese is very special and should be consumed after being discarded by myrtle; It retains the imprint of the leaves and branches on the form and, mostly, its aroma.